The journey to Louisville was long and winding. My phone lost service somewhere in western Pennsylvania and didn’t get it back until Kentucky. Somehow our plan to just cross the tip of West Virginia, to cross it off our list, turned into making our way across all of it, and precluding us from checking off Ohio.

But we made it to Louisville, and according to Google it took no longer than our planned route. My ears, which kept popping all the way through WV, would probably have preferred the other way.

Photo: YXP

We are staying at the Samuel Culbertson Mansion in Old Louisville. Given that we know no one nor had any particular plans for once we arrived, the bed and breakfast was a great choice. We are living in history and quite liking it.

Today was also a day of exploring history in scales large and small, geologic and individual.

The morning saw us at the Falls at Ohio River state park in Clarksville, Indiana. The interpretation center did a great job putting the geological processes that resulted in the exposure of the fossil bed into perspective. It started with the formation of earth, the beginnings of life on earth, the beginnings of life in what is now the Ohio River flood plains, human development in the area, and how the fossil bed was exposed when the dam was constructed.

We spent most of the time arranging our newly acquired Wolf Mom and Snow Crane avatars along the fossil bed. And in navigating to the homestead of George Clark, older brother of William Clark of Lewis and Clark fame and site of departure for their expedition.

Bird note: we saw a number of evening grosbeaks today. Common here but new to us!

Our exploration of individual histories led us to the Muhammad Ali Peace Center where we shadow boxed with Mr. Ali (his shadow won). The museum as a whole felt lacking, that maybe it pulled one too many punches by glossing over his controversies or the pain of his struggles – in the ring and out- which would have made the celebration of his victories all the more keener.

And yet, we’re glad we went. The man deserved a monument and he’s certainly got one here.

By far the most serendipitous and happiest episode of our time so far in Louisville was dinner at MilkWood by chefs Edward Lee and Kevin Ashworth.

We started with smoked eel and it brought us back to Guangzhou, evoking memories and re-connecting us to experiences long forgotten.

Mom got the MW Ramen with perfect pork belly, her words, while I feasted on a bbq pork shoulder on a bed of coconut rice and edamame. Words almost fail. Suffice to say we were satisfied, body and spirit.

Not sure how we can top that tomorrow. Perhaps we won’t even try.

Nary a piece of cardboard or blue Prime tape to be found.